Dining Out: Launderette

The Sunday come-down after the fun-but-intense music marathon that is the SXSW pushed me to seek refuge in a meal that might pull me back into active consciousness. I was alone after the band I was staying with left that morning and while I wasn't too hungry, I was on a mission to put some vegetables in my taco meat-soaked body. Launderette was in walking distance of my airbnb and to my surprise their menu revealed very reasonably priced veg options. I jogged over to prevent the unseasonably cold weather from discouraging me, the neon pink sign drawing me to the washateria-turned-restaurant from blocks away.

As always when dining solo, I sat at the bar and acquainted myself with the bartender/waiter who was young, femme and had a voice like Debbie Harry when she spoke. I let her choose two vegetable dishes for me and for the main we settled on the octopus because enough time has passed since I saw My Octopus Teacher that I can shut my brain off around the guilt– and anyway I eat pork now too.

The lighting was so low I had a hard time getting good photos, but this is the cauliflower

First up I had the caramelized cauliflower served over a celeriac purée. The pickled asian pear was lovely and crisp in contrast with the soft texture of cauliflower that was perfectly cooked. This dish hit all the notes for me, with the torn mint and the honey vinegette curbing just the right amount of heat from the fresno chilis and then that little twinkle of fennel and coriander from the dukkah sealing the deal. This was probably the best cauliflower I've ever eaten and well worth the affordable $11.

miso winter squash

The squash was a revelation, and with some hacking I think I could replicate it at home because I really, really want to eat it again. This was another masterful balance of heat, fat, and sweetness. I believe the sauce was just plain coconut cream, but there was also a little nugget of masala candied cashews and a drizzle of Aleppo-infused oil. Hidden by all the floral mint and Thai basil was a slathering of miso and cashew butter that transformed a humble quarter of acorn squash into a deceptively luxurious dish. It was like outfitting a simple vegetable with designer brand shoes and a fur coat and sending it down the catwalk. 

The pickled slice of shallot was a welcome touch of acidity but my only complaint about this dish is there could have been a little more of that note. I actually noticed many of the dishes used something pickled as garnish, which made me realize I should really start making my own little briny jars of things at home as a cheat code for my own meals. 

Last but not least, we have the octopus. I know it's not a vegetable but I really wanted something off the wood-grill menu and I couldn't have managed the whole branzino by myself. The beef and the pork didn't appeal to me that night simply because I'd had so much during the week in taco form. No regrets. The meat was tender and the char was accompanied by the mild and floral taste of artichoke barigoule, which is a French springtime dish where they are braised in broth and white wine with carrots and onions. Castelvetrano olives (my favorite) packed a salty punch in each bite, along with the briny acidity of preserved lemons, a coupling reminiscent of Moroccan tagines I very much enjoy. The sprinkling of guanciale soaked breadcrumbs bought a needed crunch to the relative softness of the other ingredients, as well as some much needed fattiness to the leanness of the octopus. The dish could have used a few more cilantro leaves for freshness, but all in all a solid dish with a span of flavors worth the price.

My only issue with the entire meal were the cocktails. I had the Traveler's Palm which was a glorified spritz I would charge two dollars less for, and the Mezcal Negroni (an uninspired name for an uninspired drink menu) which was as standard as they come. Launderette could very much use a bar director or an awarded mixologist to design a better selection of drinks for them at the price they are asking people to pay. I actually saw two young women working there trying to create a drink with violet pea flower (very in vogue and predicable if I'm being honest) because people would pay a lot of money to sit outside in warmer weather with a pretty drink. As they put it, it was "a cocktail for the girlies", which I'm sure the girlies will be happy to pay 15 dollars for so they can take a cute instagram photo with a mediocre drink. 

Other than that big asterisk, the staff was lovely and Debbie Harry happily chatted with me throughout my meal, most memorably about where people like us were going to be able to move to when we inevitably were priced out of our respective cities. As I looked around at the clientele in their boring but expensive clothing, in what used to be a public laundry house run by hispanic women, I knew exactly where she was coming from. That being said, I think Launderette is a spot where you can bring vegetarians and omnivores alike and everyone will be happy, though the vegetarians are getting a way better deal. 

Order again: cauliflower and the squash
Skip next time: charred octopus
Regret: The afterthought that is the cocktail menu